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OK surfers, how good was that past week! Just when we thought Huey the surf god had abandoned us for some temptress mermaid somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean where he seems to have been hiding most of autumn, a beastly swell stirred violently and the 1st 10ft plus waves were charging towards our coastline with more ferocity than an unexpected burst balloon in a toddler’s hands.
Then it was followed behind by clean 4-6ft surf and again another large spike on Saturday, so you may see a lot of smiling faces on surfers this week. Looking towards this weekend we see another massive beast forming out of the depths to give us another dose of solid waves.
Last Wednesday was the biggest day of the year so far, the waves came in thick, fast and heavy and – like trying to understand a drunken Scotsman – the waves were hard to predict. There were stories of 15ft terror walls of water pounding our outer reefs, tales of heroic take-offs and cavernous tubes at Kamikazes, and blood-curdling close out sets sweeping through the bombie, deleting everyone amongst the lineup.
The surf community seemed to be abuzz with activities as the trusty old guns were dusted off and new wax was strategically placed and applied carefully. There was also butterflies dancing in the stomach as guys pulled their wetsuits on before paddling amongst the monster seas.
Big shout outs to Carl Mosley who took on Kamas fearlessly, Dean Dampney and Adrian Hellman for paddling out at 1st light to Hammerheads where the waves were possibly the biggest anywhere on the east coast and Jacob Smith tackling monstrous bombie which had more mounds than Bill Shortens running shirt. Yes Wednesday was a good one to recall.
Saturday was another day that had surfers leaping in ecstasy, as another strong south swell came hurtling in our direction. As the seas grew, so did the crowds and Golf course reef was possibly the most popular venue as the waves pulsed. Not to be deterred by the escalating population was former world champ Pam Burridge riding a 10ft single fin. She seemed to appear magically on every set wave styling her way down the line putting her new board through an initiation period as she grew comfortable with it
Sally Fitzgibbons has endured a slow start to the 2016 World Surf League season to be placed in fifth position on the standings with 22,950 points. Despite her mixed results, the Gerroa-born talent is primed for her third consecutive appearance at the Fiji Women’s Pro. “It has been a bit of a yoyo year so far, but hopefully I can come to Fiji and just draw on that confidence from the previous two years,” she said.
Ulladulla boardriders members or anyone keen to come to Congo for our camping/bonding event this weekend please check Ulladulla boardriders Facebook page, Instagram or call Akwa Surf on Thursday to see if we are definitely on.
Stay classy Milton Ulladulla and if anyone would like to add anything to this column either call into AKWA surf, buzz us on 4454 5222 or email me kurt@akwasurf.com.au till next week, stay wet.